38th Parallel and a River Treat

I laid my eyes on North Korea this Saturday. I went up to the Demilitarization Zone at the 38^th Parallel. The two mile span on either side of the border is weapon free and undeveloped on both sides. Paddy fields to the south, untouched nature to the north. It is said to be the most diverse and well preserved piece of land in the world.

We climbed through the 2^nd Tunnel which North Korea constructed in 1973, allowing 1,600 soldiers an hour to infiltrate into South Korea. There is also a small museum which gives a glimpse into life in North Korea, food supply, clothing distribution, and housing shortages.

We were in need of a pick me up after the DMZ tour, so rafting we went. The rapids were quite strong, our guide kept giving warnings of falling in. By his disgruntle attitude all day I wouldn't be surprised if he wanted to lose a few of us in the rapids. We did get him smiling by the end with rocking the boat and rafting donuts. The water was cold, but the splashing wars were full force. We didn't have the excitement of bum tapping the guide, or river treats this rafting trip but the rapids and beautiful scenery made for a great afternoon.

Lotte World [Childhood] Adventure

Alex and I ventured to Lotte World to see what all the fuss was about. We crossed the magical threshold; instantly the air tasted like candy and music made me feel giddy like a child. And we were children for the day, running from ride to ride. The indoor portion reminded me of Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory with hot air balloons floating around the ceiling. The outdoor park offers some great thrill rides, not for those with weak stomaches. My favorite, Gyro Swing, suspends you upside down over the river. No hands, of course!

Lotte World offers a bit of something for everyone.  There is shopping, dining, ice skating, a Folk Museum, and special effects movie theatre. Alex introduced me to makali at the Folk Museum.

After which we ran into two co-workers from school. Joy and Jenifer, Lotte World veterans, grabbed us by the hands and lead us to the must do's of Lotte World!  

MISO

"a beautiful love story"

Betty, a Korean teacher at ECC invited me along to see MISO, a traditional Korean theatre performance. Near City Hall in Chongdong Theatre the magical progression through a Korean romance unfolds in the intimate setting. The performance is set in four chapters following the seasons. Each season representing a new phase in the courtship. The dancers dress is traditional hanbok in an array of color and elaborate hair pieces. A singer and traditional percussion quartet frames the stage. Along with the 13 female dancers, two lovers, and singer there is a percussion troupe that make the show come to life with loud rapid beats and enthusiastic dancing and performing. The men wear hanbok and head pieces with a 15 ft ribbon trailing behind. They have mastered a beautiful technique that synchronizes the music and dancing with their costume. This fluttering ribbon and feather head piece accentuates the music and stage dynamic.

Betty wasn't a huge fan of the show; she said being Korean she had seen it all too many times before. But as a beginner in Korea I loved it, the dress, the music, the dancing. It was a beautiful performance and a glimpse into Korea's past.   

Family in Korea (^_^)

Last Sunday I met with Jin, my Aunt Inye's 26 year old niece. She lives just outside Seoul in a village near Macheon Station. We meet in Insa-dong, the artsy, cultural, tourist hub of Seoul. We settled into the floor at The Old Tea Shop to share life stories while birds fluttered around above our heads and we sipped traditional Korean tea.

Jin is an only child, much like myself. She still lives with her parents in her childhood house. Her parents and her own a bakery in the village; Jin puts in over 12 hours every day along side her parents. She studied design in university and has dabbled in many different areas of the creative field. When I meet her she was wearing accessories that she had fashioned herself. In our many email correspondences she also shared with me Hanbok, traditional Korean dress, she had designed and made.

In the near future Jin plans to go back to school for either English Literature or Social Work. Her dream for further on in life is to own a tea and guest house much like the one we spend the afternoon in.

I think Jin is a true Korean; she likes spicy food and prefers to sleep on the floor except she doesn't like to have her picture taken, and that is so not Korean.

Our Sunday together consisted of peering into the windows and open doors of traditional Korean houses, strolling the grounds of the Changgyeonggung Palace, drinking tea, and shopping in Insa-dong admiring the creative world around us. The language between us made communicating difficult at times, but there was a pinky promise to learn the other's language a bit more and a trip to Japan next summer! (^_~)

Summer Play

[armed and ready]

The first semester of school at ECC came to a close with a water gun fight of the roof top for the kindi bunch and a spelling bee contest for the elementary students.

In the morning I arrived at work and was sent back home to change into proper water gun fighting attire. I returned armed and ready to seek some revenge on the class clowns. Unfortunately, I think the students had a similar idea, and their water gun skills and equipment surpassed mine.

[the students unite]

[he may be completely soaked but his face says it all]

[it was every man for himself]

[primary target: unarmed, wild student. teachers screamed "get him" from every corner]

[Koreans don't do anything half way, full equipment is a must in this game]

[the students enclose minnie without any ammunition.  its payback for the time spent in the thinking chair]

Beach Days in Busan

This Eastern port city is the second largest city in South Korea, but is little in comparison to Seoul. The sand beaches grace the coast, fresh seafood restaurants, and a night life they compare to Miami.

It is a popular place for Koreans to go for vacation. The beaches are packed with koreans, umbrella, and yellow inner tubes. You have to pay for your 3' square of space on the beach, and they line 'em up and stack 'em deep. Your lucky to be touching sand and seeing sun. In Spain women repeating “Masaje?” walk the beach offering beach goers massages. In convenient Korea a constant stream of fried chicken and beer is being pushed in your face.

Our first night in Busan was a massive rain and wind storm. Malcolm and I ran for the water, despite the precipitation. John stood 6' tall on the beach under his umbrella. Not knowing what to do in the beach town with such weather we went to the bar with the best view of the shore. Perched on the 15^th floor facing Hyundai Beach we played darts and pool until we braved the elements. We did not prepare enough in advance to claim a room in the vacation destination so we took the cheap way out and stayed in Vista jimjibang. We may of slept on the floor amoungst a hundred koreans, but for 7,000 Won ($5.75) we had a place with a view of the beach that would cost a pretty penny in the western world.

Our second day was beautiful with blue sky so we laid lazily on the beach all day until we grew hungry and had Chinese Shabu Shabu of fresh seafood and meat, cooked in two type of soup, one mild broth and the other spicy. It is served with rice, noodles, and green tea. In the evening we spent time on Gwanghali Beach which overlooks a beautiful bridge. Koreas filled the beach drinking Soju and setting off fireworks.

The sun and sand of Busan was a refreshing break from children and florescent lights, Monday was the end of summer vacation and back to work; at least it was done with a bit of a tan.  

Go Rock! Go Green!

Tucked in the mountains two hours south of Seoul was the three day music festival of Jisan Valley featuring popular Western and Korean musicians. The line up included Basement Jaxx, Patti Smith, JET, Oasis, Fall Out Boy, Jimmy Eat World, and Weezer. My favorite Korean groups were Windy City, Deli Spice, Lee Houn Choul and the Run Run Runaways, and a Korean-American female vocalist Priscilla Ahn. After the main acts finished at midnight the electronic session began and continued on til 4AM. 

The venue in situated in in a valley of Korean mountains and forest. The winter ski resort was perfect for the festival with its large space and natural setting. The green grass held the dancing and mashing to the chilled out spectators in the rear. The woods to the side was filled with the tents of the campers. It was great to get a break from the lights and cars of Anyang, and sleep in the woods.  Our tent did however tent collapsed on us the first night and the second night I slept curled around a tree trunk. Malcolm and John made a manly quest up the mountain Sunday morning, to sleep at the peak and nearly “perish” in the heat

The energy of the festival goers was impressive and the variety of music kept things exciting. Basement Jaxx put on a performance that had everyone in such high energy. Brandon and I found ourselves in this circle of dancers that repetitively formed a large circle and then all rushed the center to jump around and dance to the techno tunes. After their performance I spent the night in a circle of Koreans with three guitars and a set of bongos and improv tunes. Wonderwall was a hit, everyone was in anticipation for Oasis on Sunday night. It started with me and two Koreans, as the night went on the group got bigger, the number of instruments got greater, and the communal drinks the center followed the same trend. 

The late night scene in the electric tent suited my craving for a East London night dancing at 333. The dance moves weren't as wicked but the DJ's did a great job and everyone was into the music and dancing the night. The people at Jisan were there to have a good time and enjoy the moment; camaraderie with the people next to you made for great memories and good times. 

On Sunday Patti Smith rocked out on the stage like it was the 70's. The Koreans were confused if she was man or woman, but regardless they loved the Woodstock like performance. She ended her set with a quest for world peace and plucking off her guitar strings in the heat of the moment. JET took the stage and rocked out with great music and good looks, most people hadn't heard of them but it didn't spot the dancing and enthusiasm. By the time Oasis took the stage the entire space was filled. Everyone sang along to every song, ams raised and legs swaying.   

Malcolm's article about the concert can be read here on the Seoul Times website.  

Mud Fest: Boryeong, South Korea

I went down to Boryeong for Mud Fest this weekend. Koreans believe the mud to have a healing effect on the skin. Purifying it, cleansing it, smoothing it. After my day in the mud I might agree with them, but I also think a day in the mud has an uplifting effect on the mind. There is little that can compare to people roaming the streets in the same shade of grey, covered in mud. The ability to splash strangers with mud, and everyone loving it is one of a kind. Sliding around Boryeong, there are mud baths, a mud “jail” where workers whip mud at you, mud slides, mud wrestling, and a beach to de-mudify yourself. On the trip down I meet three Korean girls, about my age; Tracy, Heyju, and Minjumg. Both Tracey and MJ had lived in the states for a bit and speak perfect english. 

We did a mud soak, then turned green and blue with colored mud painting. We jumped into the mud wrestling, where American soldiers think they can beat anyone, and the Koreans always win with their taekwondo technique. The space is big enough to allow some serious mud sliding which was the most fun. By the end we were pulling down strangers, laughing so much we were eating mud, and blind from mud in the eyes. The trip organizer Mr. Kim also joined us in the mud pit, everyone is fair game in the mud pit!

After we had mud on every inch of our bodies, including eyes, ears, mouths, we showered and went for food and drinks. The city is equipped for a big crowd, restaurants with rows and rows of tables, the streets are lined with restaurants, drinking halls, shops, and hotels. There were bands performing all day, and vendors selling mud products. The crowd is 50% Koreans, 50% foreigners. I almost felt like I wasn't in Korea-

On the bus back, we settled into our seats and a flat screen TV in the front of the bus lights up. Silly American me, thinking a movie would come on! Oh, no- not in Korea. Next thing I know the guy sitting in front of me jumps up, mic in hand and starts belting out “Under the Sea” from The Little Mermaid. Neon lights started circling the bus, echoed vocals, and tambourine completed the karaoke scene that took us back into Seoul.  

Prada Transformer

Transformer is a tetrahedron exhibit space designed by Rem Koolhaas in collaboration with the Prada Arts Council. Placed in Seoul to promote modern arts through film, fashion, and exhibition.  The structure is set on the front of the grounds to the Gyeonghui Palace. A nice contrast that reflects the city of Seoul, the old and sacred amongst the new and contemporary.

The structure is made from scraped airplane frames. It is wrapped with a white elastic membrane that is translucent with light.  The supporting parts are held in plush shipping containers; they will be used to move the exhibit to the next location.

I visited the Transformer with the creative minds of Justin and Caitlyn.  We eagerly explored the space, touching everything, and studying the materials and space. It was a refreshing day of artist inspiration.

The exhibit space holds a shape and propose for a months time, then cranes come in and rearrange the tetrahedron to the next shape and prepare it for the next event. Each event is based out of a new shape and space, literally rolling into the next form. The tetrahedron configurations are visualized here. 

For those creative minds wanting to see the complete thesis like document with images, concepts, descriptive language, and renderings click here. 

4/25 -5/24 – Fashion Show “Waist Down”

6/27-7/09 – Film Festival, “Flesh, Mind, and Spirit”

8/14 – Art Exhibit

10/1 – Special Event focusing on South Korea and the A&D World

On Sunday morning we watched the film Padre Padrone, [My Father, My Master]. It is an Italian film directed by Paolo and Vittorio Taviani, 1977.  A young boy is forced out of education and into the field to be his father's shepard. The theme centered around family struggles, societies influence, and struggles for education and the good life.

After the film finished I went to our Italian friend, Fabio, that had joined us and confided in him that I think Italians are beautiful and their language is like music. Maybe I have been in Korea for too long. I'm craving to see some blue eyes or red hair.

Next month I will be going back to the Transformer to seek out the art exhibit... stay tuned!    

Korea Summer

Thursday marked the beginning of rainy season.  Or, monsoon season. My Korean colleagues claim that it will rain hard for the next 15 – 20 days.  If we are blessed with a rain free day it will be hot, very hot and humid. So, three days down, seventeen more to go.

In addition to the rain, the mosquitoes are out in full force. I thought it was just the kids they were after. The entire class brings in anti-itch lotion and it seems I spend most of my day rolling it over vicious bites. But karma came for me and it looks like I have the chickenpox on my legs. I think I total about 23 bites, swollen, red, and always itching! I have even equipped my limbs with a “mos zero” band. 

My Hand in Hangul

I wanted to express my gratitude to Mr. Hwang for taking me on such an amazing adventure to Mount Saurak. Hes English is pretty good, but it is still hard to get a proper understanding on what is being said. So I asked a favor of Minnie, my Korean co-teacher. She helped me translate my English thank you note to Korean. She guided me in producing Hangul letters and 2 hours later I had a thank you note to Mr. Hwang in hangul. I wrote it, cannot read it, but knows what it says.  

This past weekend was a step away from the neon city lights and into the serene mountains of Sarauksan National Park. The adventure took place under the guidance and expertise of a 55 year old Korean comrade. He is a Buddhist and a bit of a mountaineer. He was keen to show Malcolm and I the Buddhist way and Korean climbing culture.

The car ride to the national park took 7 ½ hours in the Seoul traffic, we arrived to Baekdamsa Temple in time for dinner. A rare vegetarian weekend in Korea.

We picked up a fellow Buddhist on the drive into the temple. This 67 year old Korean woman became my umma, mother, for the weekend. She showed me the ropes and proper procedures. Our main way of communicating was hand gestures and pointing. When I needed to find the bathroom and wasn't willing to get into the charades of things we had to call in reinforcement. Another visitor at the temple spoke English. So I said to him “Toilet?” and his reply “You mean, Where is the toilet?” Ah, yes, thank you for correcting my english!

The evening was spent strolling the grounds and trying our hand at the Buddhist rock building. (my skills go back to time spent with Greg working on his project in NC). The balancing act of the stones of all different sizes covers the stream in front of the temple and are then continued to be seen the entire trail to the top of Mt Saurak.

Baekdamsa Temple has reached new fame because the ex-president of South Korea, Roh Moo-Hyun, who recently committed suicide, stayed at the temple for a years time. Malcolm and Mr. Hwang were invited to stay in the ex-presidents room.

Early to bed, early to rise. Umma and I laid out our blankets at 9:00 PM, at 3:30 AM we were gentled awaken by the beat of the wooden drums. It was time for the morning prayer and meditation.

Candle light and the vibrations of the Monks voice chanting was a new way to start the day. We had a morning walk along the water, and then returned for breakfast. It was 6 AM and rice and soup was being served. This is not America. Malcolm and Mr. Hwang's roommate joined us for breakfast. He was very concerned about the hike that lay ahead of us. He said it was very difficult, and had this worried look on his face and disbelief in his voice. I had finished my breakfast and was caught off guard when the roommate moved a piece of tofu from his plate to mine. “uuuh, kamsamnida...?” okay so not to be rude, I ate the tofu, then there was some potatoes. He didn't have faith in us, or our climbing abilities.

We headed off into the woods at 7 AM, not to return to the temple again until 6:00 PM. The first 4k's brought us to Yeongsiam Temple that is being renovated and a community water pump with bowls that everyone drinks from, rinses, and passes to the next person. Another 2k's and we stopped along the stream to cool down and have a snack. Umma chatted with a group of Korean woman who were very impressed with us foreigners. They shared their snacks of rice bread, plums, and seaweed soup.

We reached the Bongjeongam Temple by 11. The temple is built right into the mountain side, in the main valley of Sauraksan. From there we started climbing up and up and up to the highest points. The view into the valley was stunning. 1600M high, overlooking the world. On the way to the top is a very sacred pagoda that is believed to have a piece of Buddha inside.

Along the trek to the top Malcolm and I surprised a lot of Koreans when they saw our foreign faces. I was coming around one corner when a korean man exclaimed “Whoa!” when he saw me. There was a constant stream of “Hello, how are you?” Mr. Hwang kept saying that many Koreans were giving us praise for climbing the mountain. But then there was also a bit of joking from the 60 year old women who said “when I was 20, I ran up the mountain.”

At 2PM after soaking in the great views we started to head back down the mountain. Mr. Hwang never runs out of energy. He was still springing down the mountain. A man on a mission, I was always 20 paces behind him and I really was running at parts. At one point Mr. Hwang laid down and I was convinced we would be stopping for more that 10 minutes. But sure enough, 3 minutes was enough to restore his energy and he jumped up and was off.

We were about ½ mile to the temple Mr. Hwang ran into a friend who offered the guys cigarettes and they happily accepted. We crashed onto logs and chilled out while Mr. Hwang kept pulling treats from his bag. First some juice, and candy. Then bananas, a cucumber, and then some Soju. His friends face light up. So we sat in the rain, going bite for bite off a cucumber, swig for swig of soju for the men, with cigarette smoke filling the air. What a way to end a 24k hike. Thank goodness it involved sitting.

We bowed goodbye to the monk at the temple and piled back into the car to begin the long drive back to the busy streets of Seoul.

The weekend was the best weekend I have had in Korea. I feel like I really experienced Korean culture and was not living in a knock off America. The scenery was beautiful and the friendliness of the people on the mountain was refreshing. It was hard work getting to the top, but it was worth every painful step to the top, and for the three days after! Next stop, Jirisan National Park to climb the 2^nd highest peak in Korea!