Seorak Mountain Sunrise

[starting point with beautiful weather]

Last weekend was another adventure with Mr. Kim. My second time to Seoraksan, using a different route to the top this time. We started at Han'gy-ryeong and hiked straight up from 900m to 1500m. Our pace was slow and it took about 7 hours to reach our shelter at Socheong-bong. The climb was up was easier compared to the route I took last time, and more direct. The 8 kilometer hike on Saturday was made memorable with rain and clouds. We didn't lay eyes on the the beautiful valley of Seoraksan until the next day. The sights were hidden from us beneath clouds, rain, and grey, making us question why exactly we kept taking the next step.

[french. american.swedish.]

At about 6:30 the sun set while Mr Kim kept telling us twenty more minutes, it was more accurately two hours to the shelter. The headlamps were light and the climbing continued, it was my favorite part of the hike. Traipsing through the dark, damp woods in silence; a rare moment in Korea. We began to hear voices from the shelter, we were greeted with a second team of climbers who had started the BBQ for the evenings dinner.The mountaineering Koreans had carried up gas burners and endless pounds of meat, rice, and curry to feed our hungry selves.

Then it was to bed, the women stayed in a shelter that is convenient store by day and sleeping accommodations by night. By the time I had made it to my sleeping space the blankets were long gone. I weaseled my way in between a couple of Koreans and fought their resentment all night for a bit of blanket. Alex's wake up call at 4:30 am was a blessing. The stars filled the sky; the cloud and fog of yesterday had cleared. The valley was waiting for us to discover it.

[love for seoraksan sunrise]

The head lamps were back on and we made our way for the highest peak. About as crowded as downtown Seoul, the peak at six am was the place to be. Everyone was waiting for the sun to come up over the edge. It's first glimpse was rewarded with a cheering crowd. The view was beautiful; the mountains became clear, you could see the rocky faces, the warm autumn colors and peaks and valleys for miles.

The route back down the mountain was a bit longer, 12k's but strolling along the stream the offered soothing sounds, waterfalls, and resting spots. Down and down again, we made it to the base where everyone reunited and piled back onto the bus.

Back to Seoul, and for once my residence in Anyang has proved beneficial. The bus driver was going that way so he offered to take me back. Instead of an hour subway trek I was chauffeured within two blocks of my apartment on a chartered bus, just me, the bus driver, and a 30” flat screen TV!

Bukhansan Hike and Rock Climbing

Bukhansan means “mountains north of the Han River”.  Last Saturday I went with Mr. Kim and the climbing crew to northern Seoul where we set off on a so called “relaxing, leisure” hike. HA! Mr. Kim is a soju and hike liar.  We started out with a gym class circle stretch out session and began our mountain mission.

[가게! lets go! ]

[Mr. Kim]

[the rock surface we climbed]

We divided into two groups about an hour into the trail. Maybe it was the other team that went on the leisure hike. I was regretting my choice of the rock climbing team about ten feet up the first slope. I was in a frozen stance but my improper shoes had me sliding back down to the initial ledge. Alex's professional advice, “just run!” Never having done this before, I didn't trust him, but quickly learned that it was the best, or only, option at the time. Running worked and at the top I came to realize that it was just the beginning, and we had three more rock surfaces at steep angles that we would have to conquer to savor the view from the top. A rope was used for the rest of the climbs, and the group quickly master the technique and took each step with complete confidence and determination.

[to climb and conquer]

[final ascend]

At the top of the mountain, about 800 meters high, we all took in the scenery and enjoyed the sights of Korea. Koreans were sprawled out everywhere taking a rest, eating kimbap, and drinking makali, Korean rice wine. A group of Koreans asked to take a picture with Alan and I, claiming we were so beautiful. After 3 hours off trudging up a mountain in the summer climate I'd say I was anything but beautiful. Maybe they had hit the makali too hard.

[seoul from above/haze]

[sleep on the slant]

Our slow descend down the mountain was broken up with an impromptu yoga sessions, a photo shoot on top of the mountain, and many breaks amongst the trees. But all along Alex was hurrying us along, because he was “thirsty”.

Another Korean companion, nicknamed “Mountain Man”, literally bounced/sprinted/jumped/ up the mountain and every rock formation from the bottom to the top. His energy never ceased. He carried a bag that was as bigger and probably weighing more than him. At one point we watched him disappear into a gap between a few large boulders to then reappear on the top side. Amazing; a worthy idol.

Getting closer to the bottom, we started to hear music and felt gleeful for the end of the trek. We then discovered a restaurant in the mountains. Immediately we all ditched our stuff, claimed a table, drank their entire water supply, and jumped into the creak behind the restaurant. A bit of food, makju, singing (by a professional opera signer from Chicago), and a few rounds of Alan's favorite game Titanic finished off the hike and a great day at Bukhansan.